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Feb |
27 |
Sat |
10-5 |
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AND |
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Feb |
28 |
Sun |
10-5 |
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Class Fee |
$180.00 plus supplies |
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Prerequisites: |
Peyote |
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Skill Level: |
Intermediate/advanced |
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Technique: |
Peyote |
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Description: |
The bodice of a gown has always
provided one of the most spectacular settings for displaying
imposing jewelry. For a lady, getting dressed in the mid
1700’s was an adventure. She had to think ahead and usually
needed the help of a servant. The lady would prepare herself
for being dressed by having her hair finished, her shift
(short day/night dress), cap, earrings, stockings, garters
and shoes on, in preparation for the stays being laced
around her. This, she could not do herself as they usually
laced up the back. Stays were made from multiple layers of
fabric that were quilted together leaving vertical channels.
The channels held either strips of chair cane or baleen for
support. Once laced around the body, they offered the
smooth, conical body shape, popular of the time.
For a lot of gowns, the next layer would have been the
addition of tied on pockets and panniers. Panniers were tied
around the waist and changed the width of the wearer’s hips.
These shaped cages were made from layers of fabric and chair
cane, with musket balls added to the frame for weight. Then
came a series of petticoats with the last petticoat being
the most decorative. Tied around the waist, their number
would depend on how wealthy you were. Then a stomacher was
pinned over the top of the stays for beauty and to hide the
stays. This item was usually highly decorated with
embroidery, pearls and trims. A stomacher was a long
triangular shaped piece, stiffened with multiple layers of
fabric. The gowns bodice would then be placed on the lady,
pulled really tight around the body and laced, over the top
or underneath the stomacher then pinned or sewn into place.
If the lady was dressed appropriately for a formal occasion,
her servant would then pin or sew one or more bodice
ornaments to the front of her stomacher. These elaborate
bodice ornaments were large, stone-encrusted pieces that
were made of gold. Shaped to cover the upper edge of the
stomacher, most surviving examples are works of art. The
ornaments were usually made of open filigree work
masterfully done in gold, set with diamonds, precious and
semi-precious stones. The lady was just about ready, with
finishing touches depending on fashion. But at this point
she was resplendent!
The fabulous bodice ornaments that have survived from the
18th century inspired Milady’s Brooch & Pendant Ornament. A
trillion shaped stone is set within Peyote Stitch then layer
upon layer of Peyote Stitch and embellishing techniques make
channels, or paths of beadwork, that hold small pearls and
stones set in fine metal settings. The edges are finished
with a stylized foliage design representing filigree work. A
pearl encrusted dangle adds movement to the bottom of the
ornament. Lavishly set, extremely rich in ornament, this
piece can be a brooch or a pendant. If the wearer chooses
the pendant style, then we will add a shaped bail and slide
the pendant over a simple Peyote Stitch tube with a toggle
and loop closure for a spectacular finish! For those that
would prefer a brooch, we will sew a high quality pin-back
to the back of the beadwork so that you can wear this
ornament in 18th century style. |
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